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TECH TIP: BASIC PERSONAL WATERCRAFT MAINTENANCE & INSPECTION

Each year thousands of consumers purchase personal watercraft, and each year many of these owners are not properly informed nor familiar with the basic requirements for periodic maintenance and inspection of those craft. A properly maintained personal watercraft will perform better, last longer, have a stronger resale value and even save in unnecessary repair costs - just a few reasons why a personal watercraft owner should not neglect the care of the craft.

Included in this article are a few easy steps to guide you through the basic, essential maintenance and inspection procedures you as a personal watercraft owner should follow.

Pre-ride inspection
Proper maintenance should always begin with a cursory check of the overall external condition of your craft before venturing onto the waterways. A simple walk-around will take less than five minutes to perform. This is similar to what an airplane pilot would do to his aircraft prior to takeoff. It is important to be certain that the lanyard is not attached and that the engine is off before you begin the examination.

Jet-pump assembly 
As a priority, look at the rear of the craft for a bent or broken steering cable. This ensures that your steering mechanism will function properly. Then examine the steering nozzle for any loose bolts or attachments that may be broken. Once inspection of the steering nozzle is completed, examine the pump vanes and impeller by looking directly inside the steering nozzle. A flashlight will help tremendously when doing this. Search for any chipped, bent or broken impeller blades or pump vanes. Also make sure that the pump housing is clean and free of any debris.

Next take the time to inspect the intake grate, again checking for any debris. The best way to do this is to grab the intake grate with your hand and make sure it is not loose or broken. Continue to examine this area for any debris that may have entered into the pump area. Remove any foreign matter that is found. Remember, to prevent serious injury it is extremely important that the lanyard is not attached to the personal watercraft and that the engine is not running when attempting this inspection.

After final inspection of the steering system and pump assembly is done, verify that the drain plug is in place and secured. (It is always a good idea to take along a spare drain plug and lanyard when you go riding.)

Steering system
Test the handlebars by moving them in either direction, lock to lock, to be absolutely sure that there is no binding hindrance to the steering mechanism. The bars should be able to turn smoothly in either direction. Grab the handlebars and test to see if you can move them up and down. If you find that the bars are indeed loose, you must tighten them prior to taking the personal watercraft out for a ride. Make sure the bars are tight and that they do not slip.

The next step is to examine and test the throttle lever. Whether you have a finger- or thumb-type throttle lever, check to ensure that the movement of the lever is smooth. Test the lever by squeezing it to the full-throttle position and then releasing the lever to be certain it returns to its idle position without any hesitation. If the lever doesn't return without hesitation, check the cable for any kinks and check the return spring on the carburetor. If both of these check out, try lubricating the cable. After all, the throttle cable, as well as the steering cable and trim cable, should be periodically lubricated. Also check for any loose bolts, broken pins or clips or a cracked throttle-lever housing.

Lanyard connection 
A lanyard is your key. You must have this in order to start the personal watercraft. Like most parts, lanyards are subject to wear and tear. Look to see if the wristband or clip is worn or broken. If so, don't wait - replace it. Test the lanyard by starting the personal watercraft and pulling the lanyard to make sure it is working properly. Next check that the lanyard fits firmly on the switch to prevent it from accidentally coming off while riding. (Always take an extra lanyard along when riding.)

Fire extinguisher
By federal law you must have a working fire extinguisher on board any motorboat. A personal watercraft is no exception. Carefully inspect the condition of the cap on your fire extinguisher compartment. Inspect the cap to make sure it isn't cracked (or torn if it's rubber) and make sure that it fits securely, while still being removable with little effort. Next, pull the fire extinguisher out of the storage tube and examine the extinguisher. Most have a seal across the activation button. If this seal is broken, more than likely your extinguisher has been exhausted. In addition to the seal, most fire extinguishers also have a test button that allows you to check whether or not it is operable. If your extinguisher is exhausted, or if you're just not sure, go ahead and replace it. Believe me, it'll save you in the long run.

Choke knob and fuel petcock

Open and close the choke to ascertain that it is working properly and is not in a frozen state or malfunctioning. Check the operation of the fuel petcock to assure that it moves freely from the on, off and reserve positions.

Once you've finished doing the exterior walk-around, the next examination will be an internal inspection.

Fuel lines and cooling hoses 
The first internal examination should begin with the inspection of the fuel lines and cooling hoses. Make sure that each end of every fuel line and cooling hose is properly connected with a clamp or zip tie. Check and make sure that there are no kinks or cracks in any of the hoses and also inspect them for brittleness. Replace any hoses that show any of these signs. If you detect any other deficiencies, such as a hose rubbing on the exhaust system or any other engine component, reroute it or wrap it with spiral wrap to prevent a hole being rubbed through it.

Battery
Check the battery for any loose or corroded connections, and verify that it has the proper level of battery acid. If the level is too low, distilled water can be added to reach the proper level. Be careful when filling the battery, as the acid is very corrosive. In addition to checking the battery connections and level, also check the vent hose, if applicable, to make sure that it isn't kinked. Finally, inspect the condition of the battery straps. Make sure that they hold the battery securely in place.

Throttle and choke cable
Since both of these cables are attached to the carburetor in an area with high engine vibration, it is a good idea to check both the throttle and choke cable to verify that they are tightly secured.

Drive line and couplers
Most personal watercraft have one or more grease fittings located on the drive line. Consult your owner's manual for the proper location on your make and model. Greasing these bearings regularly is very important to ensure their longevity. However, do not over grease them. Look for any foreign objects that may have fallen in the area and remove them immediately.

Fuel tank and oil reservoir
It may sound obvious, but make sure you have plenty of oil and a full tank of fuel. Check both the fuel and oil cap to make sure that the gasket seal is not cracked or torn, or even completely missing. Also check and make sure that the caps themselves are not cracked. Inspect the fuel tank and oil reservoir for any other possible leaks - like a split seam.

Post-ride inspection
Proper maintenance after riding takes about 15 minutes and is essential to the upkeep of your craft. Again, it is very important to be certain that the lanyard is not attached and that the engine is off before performing any inspection or maintenance procedures.

Drain-plug removal
The first thing to do once your craft is out of the water is to remove the drain plug and empty any water found in the bilge area. In some cases, you might have to tilt the craft to let the excess water drain out. It is important to remove the water from the motor compartment, as any standing water will create moisture and can cause corrosion.

Flushing
Whether you ride in fresh or salt water, it is imperative to flush the PWC out with fresh water after each use. In most craft, flushing with fresh water back-flushes the cooling system, thereby cleaning it of any debris and salt water. Today some makes and models have factory-installed flush kits. If yours does not, don't hesitate to purchase one and use it at the end of each day. There are some aftermarket flush kits available which work extremely well and have a quick-connect attachment making them very easy and quick to use.

The proper way to flush the watercraft is to attach your garden hose to the flush kit. Keep clear of the pump area and then start your engine. Once the engine has started, turn your garden hose on and allow fresh water to run through the entire engine and pump for several minutes. It is very important that the engine is started first before the water is turned on. When you have completed the flushing , shut the water off first before you turn the engine off. The reason to follow these instructions precisely is to prevent any water intrusion into the engine. If the craft was used in salt water, lightly rinse the engine and engine compartment with fresh water. Be sure to cover your flame arrestor with a plastic bag when doing this to prevent water from entering the carburetor.

Proper maintenance always includes flushing with fresh water, especially for those who ride in salt water.

Lubrication
After rinsing the engine compartment with fresh water, lightly dry it and then spray WD-40 or a similar lubricant on the engine and its components. This will help prevent corrosion, frozen cables and keep the appearance like new.

Spark plugs

Spark-plug failures are the most common problems with personal watercraft. Improper mixture of gas and oil will foul the plugs. Changing your spark plugs after 25 hours of operation and keeping a spare set on board is good practice. The tool kits supplied with most PWC have the tool necessary to change the spark plugs. Don't forget to know the proper spark-plug gap before installing the new set of plugs.

Proper storage

After the craft has been flushed and lubricated and all of the water has been removed from the engine compartment, the personal watercraft is ready to be stored until the next time you use it. Leading dealerships recommend leaving the engine cowling or seat opened or off the craft to allow the engine to completely dry and also to provide ventilation. If your craft is left outside in the sun, keep it covered to prevent fading and deterioration from the UV rays and weather.

Taking the time to follow these simple yet crucial maintenance guidelines will prolong the life of the watercraft. Consult your owner's manual for any other maintenance tips and schedules that are required for your PWC. If you discover any problems with the watercraft and are unfamiliar with the proper procedure or adjustment, then take the watercraft to your local authorized dealership for service.